When we decided to travel in France for the month of May, we realized we would be able to arrange our trip to be in Bordeaux during Le Week-end des Grands Crus. This is an annual event put on by the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux, a non-profit association comprised of all the Grands Crus vineyards in Bordeaux. This is the sixth edition of this event, and is composed of TheTasting in Bordeaux at Hangar 14 on the Quai des Chartrons. Can you imagine tasting any (every was not an option either due to time or my inability to spit out the many great tasting wines that afternoon) Grands Crus from Bordeaux and meeting either the owner or manager from the Estate? The event was excellent and absolutely the best wine tasting I have ever attended.
After a quick walk back to our apartment and time to refresh, we prepared for the next event, a dinner at one of the participating wine properties. I was hesitant to sign up for this event, with neither of us being able to speak French. I was not concerned being unable to understand the presentations about each wine that would be served with each course, but I was feeling a little annoyed with myself about not knowing the language, and possibly making our dinner companions feel either uncomfortable or annoyed with us for being there and not being able to participate in the table discussions.
Knowing my concerns I called the Union from the USA prior to registering. I was assisted by a delightful woman, whom I came to learn was Eun Lemercier, a South Korean by birth, but adopted and raised in Bordeaux….well, that’s another story. Suffice it to say that she allayed my concerns and we registered for one of the dinners.
Then, as the evening event drew near, we both were tired and I was gathering all my anxiety in one basket which became a rather heavy weight. I was ready to let a nap interfere with going to the dinner, and asked Ligia if she really wanted to attend. She held no such anxiety about the evening and indicated that she was ready to go. So we went….and we are so so happy we did.
We caught the bus in Bordeaux that was provided for the dinner attendees, and traveled to Saint-Emilion and the Chateau Larcis Ducasse, a Grands Crus Classe. Well, at first it felt awkward. It seemed as if we were the only people there that did not either speak or understand French. Our hosts were very gracious though and during a pre-dinner reception we met Jacques-Olivier Gratiot, the winery owner and his daughter. As the reception continued on the front lawn of the Chateau, we were then introduced to Sylvie Cazes, a manager of three wine properties, but also the current President of the Union Des Grands Crus De Bordeaux.
At this time, we thought our evening was a smashing success, that our brief conversations with these delightful people were warm and comfortable, and were prepared to have dinner with some of the other guests, hoping our language short comings were not intrusive on their evening. We followed the others up into a room above the Cave where dinner was to be served. We all soon realized that there were name cards and we each had an assigned seat….and we shortly thereafter found our assigned table and seats. Then we further realized that we were seated at the table hosted by Jacques-Olivier and Sylvie was there as well. What then transpired were three plus hours of delightful conversation and heavenly food and wine.
From Jacques-Olivier, to his daughter, to Sylvie, to each of the representatives of the various wines we tasted, they made their comments in French, and then repeated them in English. We were never more appreciative of any kindness extended to us before….the graciousness of each person, and their often apologetic tone for not knowing English better was amazing. Moments like these are cherished, and remembered for a lifetime.
Ah, the food and wine….four courses of the most flavorful and fresh tasting food….so hard to explain in my limited american food vocabulary…but crab salad with safran and citronmelle, lamb that melted in your mouth, followed by the traditional cheese course with mesclun, and the dessert course presented a Souffle Passion and Sorbet.
Ahhh, but the wine! Each course was served with either one or two wines. At first, upon arrival and as we were being seated, we tasted a white wine, a Chateau Carbonnieux 2008, a Pessac-Leognan Cru Classe de Graves. With our first course or Entree, we were treated to our hosts’ own Chateau Larcis Ducasse 2000, a Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classe and a Margaux Cru Classe from Chateau Dauzac 2006. Then, with our Plat, we were served a Saint-Estephe from Chateau De Pez 2003 and another wine from Chateau Carbonnieux, this time a 2001 red.
While throughly enjoying ourselves and these wines, our host, Jacques-Olivier stepped away from our table for a few moments, followed by a waiter, who subsequently opened another bottle of wine that I was able to notice was from his own cellar. Then, as I watched the appreciative look on Sylvie’s face, a knew we must be in for a special treat…and were we…..Jacques-Olivier had decided to share a special and rare bottle for the Chateau’s cellar….we were all poured a glass of the 1959 vintage from Chateau Larcis Ducasse, a wine that was superb, delicate and oh so smooth. The wine served with dessert was a 2002 Chateau La Tour Blanche, a Sauternes Premier Cru Classe that complemented the final plate of the evening wonderfully……..but the mind, and the mouth returned to 1959 more than a few times the rest of the evening.
As we prepared for the bus ride back to Bordeaux, we said Bonsoir and Merci Beaucoup to our host, he gave each of us a bottle of his 1988 vintage as a present. The ride back and the walk to our apartment took 90 minutes, but felt like 9.
Fabulous! Just Fabulous!